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Post by davej98002 on Dec 24, 2020 23:50:42 GMT -5
I've used (pinched) campaign signs made from Coraplast for temp body panels. They are laying all over after an election.
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Post by rtrikes on Jan 11, 2021 0:13:17 GMT -5
Hello great build thanks for posting. I want to move the radiator on my Tr1ke from the back to the front under the hood like yours. Do you happened to have a diagram of the hoses. I don't know if there something extra that's needed since the run is a lot longer. I feel like there my be trapped air or more room needed for expansion since there is extra coolant in the system. I see Rebel the makers of the Tr1ke has a kit for the cooling system now which confused me further. It has has an extra bottle and a t-fitting. Here is a link to the new Rebel kit. rebel-pm.co.uk/product/tr1ke-cooling-kit/ Did you use this kit or did you basically mimic the cooling system that was on the original R1? Also you said in a post you lifted the front of the bike up high to get as much coolant into the system as possible, then it looks like you forced some coolant in with a squeeze bottle. I'm wondering if this wasn't done just right could the water pump develop a open air chamber and stop pumping assuming the pump is up high somewhere. Link to my tr1ke photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM47XWLLAbckKfrb7NXUuzGNrGrbBGSvsN9P4YDCZoelDkbaGzFKbvDRkIJu9I1_A/photo/AF1QipOs-x0ETRZ51YPPj_MDm66M6m9B75533A-im1xE?key=MGt6d0JXYjdrQTlTc0FVQUNWbGVtNFZIMG9iS1l3
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Post by rtrikes on Jan 14, 2021 9:31:36 GMT -5
If anyone knows one of the Tr1ke owners from the site could you please point them to the question I had above. I asked in another forum and on Facebook RT owners and have never gotten an answer.
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 14, 2021 13:25:01 GMT -5
Peter Dove at Dove Racing may answer some questions or may get 1 of the other owners to reply. The MEV pages will not allow any RPM owners to post. Bad blood between MEV and RPM.
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Post by rtrikes on Jan 16, 2021 4:54:18 GMT -5
Peter Dove at Dove Racing may answer some questions or may get 1 of the other owners to reply. The MEV pages will not allow any RPM owners to post. Bad blood between MEV and RPM. Yes the Tr1ke section locked for new posts.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Jan 16, 2021 12:22:25 GMT -5
What was your turn around from the kit arriving to the first drive? It looks good, thanks for the detailed explanation on the coolant fill, that is a definite issue on mine and I don't think I can get away with what you did since my engine and radiator are right next to each other. I have never had cooling issues, except for when I wired my pusher fan wrong after the chassis powdercoat, but I do know my system basically runs unpressurized due to the in ability to remove air from the system.
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 16, 2021 15:41:15 GMT -5
Peter Dove at Dove Racing may answer some questions or may get 1 of the other owners to reply. The MEV pages will not allow any RPM owners to post. Bad blood between MEV and RPM. Yes the Tr1ke section locked for new posts. To add new posts the Admin must add 'Permissions' to your member profile. So if you own a tR1ke made by RPM you will not be allowed to post new comments.....
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Post by rtrikes on Jan 29, 2021 0:37:47 GMT -5
but I do know my system basically runs unpressurized due to the in ability to remove air from the system. From what I've been reading best practice would be to add a T at a high point in the system then add a bottle to bleed the air to from the extra outlet the T created.
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 29, 2021 1:08:39 GMT -5
The problem of doing stuff outside design is you have to rethink just about everything. A surge tank with a filler cap at the highest point is best to "Burp" the system. Getting it to fit....... The 90's Jeep Cherokee 4.0L had a horrible system. You needed to lift the rearend up 2 feet and then while running, crack a bleeder screw on the rear of the intake manifold.
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Post by rtrikes on Feb 1, 2021 23:10:36 GMT -5
The problem of doing stuff outside design is you have to rethink just about everything. A surge tank with a filler cap at the highest point is best to "Burp" the system. Getting it to fit....... The 90's Jeep Cherokee 4.0L had a horrible system. You needed to lift the rearend up 2 feet and then while running, crack a bleeder screw on the rear of the intake manifold. Yes, have to get this right, or risk engine damage.
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Post by liteway on Feb 2, 2021 10:02:38 GMT -5
I do not recommend the following solution, only to say it has worked for me for 12 yrs and 12000 miles, with an engine that runs cool even in 100 degree heat. I have grafted in a soldered up copper plumber's fitting into the highest exposed rubber hose in the system. The plug is sealed with teflon tape just as is common with household fittings. Starting with an empty system, I fill to over flow, start the engine and continue filling as air burps out of the system. About the time it stops burping, the coolant begins to expand and over flow. I seal the plug , make sure I have some coolant in the over flow tank and allow the system to cool down. Unplug, run the engine and top the filler again. It only takes doing this cycle a time or two before you are left with only a tiny air space at the top of the tube. No air is trying to be pumped through the system. The radiator pressure cap and overflow tank function normally. It's not ideal as when the system is pressurized coolant is expelled ahead of air, But as long as you keep the overflow tank at the designated fill level there will be no way for air to enter the system anyway. I check the level from time to time at the plug but it rarely needs toping off. Of course, a pressure capped expansion tank would be preferable if you have the space and want to take the trouble and expense. I have never felt the need to bother. And obviously, whatever the method, a properly functioning temperature gauge must proceed all. i.pinimg.com/originals/0f/50/14/0f50142de6e53d00fefec26df86f0781.jpg?epik=dj0yJnU9cVFFYnJNUVdP
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Post by davej98002 on Feb 2, 2021 17:56:53 GMT -5
I would install two bleeder screws at the 2 highest points front and rear. I used a 1 1/4 adapter that has a 3/8's pipe screw threaded in. The one I have is brass but here is a Aluminum alloy one below.
And then you need a bleeder screw like below
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Post by davej98002 on Feb 2, 2021 18:04:17 GMT -5
But if you can fit one of these in at the high point....
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Post by rtrikes on Mar 4, 2021 18:56:42 GMT -5
Problem is the Yamaha R1 has 2 bleeder hoses and also inputs a coolant hose to the oil system inside the engine and cools the oiling system too. Along with the main two big hoses. 5 hoses that can not be rerouted ort deleted without major thought or risk engine damage. The R1s cooling system is very technical Crazy flow pattern of yamaha R1 mevowners.proboards.com/attachment/download/333Thankfully with a lot of searching and reading I finally found some guys that figured out how to reroute the hoses and make the system bleed properly and release air even in the event of an unnoticed leak. Here is a diagram courtesy of Mr. Slugshot incase someone else should ever need it. i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/slugshot3/SDC123411.jpgI have switched to a front mounted radiator mounted lower than the engine and installed all the new hoses and bottles, the system works very well. Thank you all who replied. PS: I hope the gentleman that started this thread is doing well as he never came back it seems. Hopefully he is out enjoying his RT somewheres.
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Post by davej98002 on Mar 5, 2021 0:18:56 GMT -5
Members come and go without notice and we never know why.
During Covid 19 its always a question if they are still able to post.
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Post by dgibson3 on Apr 20, 2021 9:32:46 GMT -5
rtrikes and DaveJ, apologies, been away from the site working on getting the law changed in Texas to allow Reverse Trike builds as assembled vehicles.
rtrikes figured it out, on the MEV site, there are some diagrams on the hose layout, and of course lots of different ways and thoughts on how to accomplish. Yes the R1 has a complicated coolant system. One of my last posts showed the little "t" at the top of the coolant hoses (on the small bypass hose from the thermostat). This an jacking up the front of the trike to initially fill the coolant, has seemed to work well.
On the Title/registration issue in Texas, there has been some progress. There is a bill before the State house to update the definition of an "autocycle", and once that is passed, some rule writing by the TX DMV. I would expect perhaps September/October to be able to resubmit my paperwork to get the TR1ke titled and registered in Texas. More as we find out.
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Post by dgibson3 on May 3, 2021 10:01:03 GMT -5
Here is the R1 diagram I added a small 'T' and ball valve on pipe 12 near to the thermostat, which is the highest point in the coolant system. After lifting the front of the Trike and filling the coolant system as full as possible, put the TR1ke back on the ground and then opened the ball valve and topped up the coolant there, while squeezing Pipe 9 to burp out any remaining air. Started the TR1ke and let it come up to temp with the ball valve open, had a lot more air bubbles, and then eventually, no more bubbles. Closed the ball valve. A more schematic view is this one.
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Post by dgibson3 on Jul 15, 2021 9:34:27 GMT -5
As of July 15, 2021, The bill did not pass. As a result, there will not be any rule writing or changes to the current process. As the Texas house only meets every two years, this is not the optimal result. Will start looking for alternatives. March 25, 2021 From the TX DMV – Vehicle Titles and Registration Division I want to make sure you are aware of a bill that is currently filed. A link is below for your review. The net effect is it removes the requirement for an autocycle to be manufactured and certified to comply with federal safety requirements for a motorcycle. It also requires an autocycle to be titled and registered as a passenger vehicle rather than a motorcycle. We are still analyzing this bill, but I would think this would accomplish what you are after. Having a vehicle definition that you can meet that would be classified as a motor vehicle would connect to the definition of an assembled motor vehicle in Chapter 731. capitol.texas.gov/tlodocs/87R/billtext/pdf/SB01736I.pdf#navpanes=0
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Post by davidwgibson on Feb 4, 2023 11:14:58 GMT -5
Got it registered in Montana, under an LLC. Spent 6 months trying in Washington state, but never able to get a VIN inspection appointment.
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Post by dgibson3 on Oct 24, 2023 14:36:12 GMT -5
Now up for sale if anyone is interested. I can be contacted at davidwgibson@hotmail.com
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