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Post by liteway on Mar 4, 2019 19:10:43 GMT -5
Killing time in a dreadfull cold february. Installed Olin's steering damper. foreground Built up new tie rod center (red dilli above) for better stiffness, more clearance under shins and with fork connectors for tie rod rod ends. Added center brace in upper control arm to prevent twisting (resulting in castor reduction) under braking load.
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Post by davej98002 on Mar 4, 2019 19:29:22 GMT -5
Looks good from what I can see not blown up bigger.
Pinterist puts a huge window over the pictures requiring me to sign in. Don't have an account. Guess I could register.
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Post by liteway on Mar 4, 2019 19:56:02 GMT -5
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Post by davej98002 on Mar 4, 2019 20:48:50 GMT -5
Loyd, sorry to whine. Yes those 3 links show up big and I can click the + and make them HUGE. I have an old Pinterest account under my old Juno.com email account. Never transferred it over.
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Post by Admin on Mar 4, 2019 21:34:30 GMT -5
I loved your idea of the twin stick steering. I do wonder how much movement you have to have in the hand grips for full lock steering. srx660
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Post by liteway on Mar 4, 2019 23:44:52 GMT -5
The latest mods change that figure from 7.5 to 9.5 inches at the lever ends. lock to lock while also providing a couple more degrees maximum wheel lock. That's about all I can manage without performing an awkward torso twist while belted into the 4 point harness for a minimum space u turn. Of course the occasion for going lock to lock in normal driving is something you really don't do. From on center to full lock is only 4.75 inches.
I could quicken the ratio for less motion required but that would make it steer too quickly for the best straight line behavior and give less leverage for low speed maneuvering. After living with it for years, I think I have the best compromise for my needs.
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Post by liteway on Mar 8, 2019 8:40:09 GMT -5
I took my first lengthy ride in months yesterday, about 50 miles with half on the interstate. Mildly disappointed. The damper does give slightly more solid feel to the steering and lessens kickback, but there is still more than I would like and it continues to bound over bumps more than with the ATV front. Still likes to follow road camber too much, but I guess there was no reason to expect that to be affected by a damper. This last was a characteristic of the ATV front end as well. Strange to me that 2 entirely different front ends would ultimately wind up feeling much the same. Maybe because steering, springs and shocks are unchanged? The steering damper does improve overall road manners and it did not, as I feared, make low speed steering too stiff. Not sure it was worth the 425 bucks expended, but this is no reflection on Olins. Afterall, the damper was designed to quell oscillations in the forks of motorcycles, not improve stability in road trikes. James, how stable is the Ryker over large changes in road camber? On a more positive note, as long as the road surface is decent, Its tracks nicely through turns at speed with no mid corner corrections needed, just hold a bit of pressure on the appropriate stick. Great fun. I have added a couple more degrees to an already good amount of steering lock. Added to the trike's relatively short wheelbase of 88 inches, I can cut wickedly tight turns free of squeal and scrub, important with no reverse. i.pinimg.com/originals/db/6d/7f/db6d7f44e20ac73a563648d2b4e475f1.jpg
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Post by Admin on Mar 8, 2019 10:50:50 GMT -5
Liteway, i have been on some rough sections of paved roads and some very rough limerock roads. The limerock roads i have to slow way down because they have large potholes and various size dips up to 6 ft in diameter in the roads. The ryker suspension has 4 inches of travel but it doesn't feel like it. Can-am makes the suspension pretty stiff so it slides before it will lift a wheel. Along with the sensor computer control that cuts power if the trike leans too much the ryker, plus it has a anti-sway bar that looks small but does work. The ryker leans very little. I was hitting a somewhat broad paved street corner maybe a bit fast when the power dropped and the brake self applied for a second. I stayed in my lane but went right to the centerline before power came back and it powered me back to the center of the lane(front wheels turned in). I have not hit any sandy roads yet but i am looking to find one so i can try to slide the trike. I usually run the trike in ECO mode because the mpg is around 36.
In sport mode the power drop comes on a lot less and slightly later so on the same corner i went wide into the oncoming lane about a foot. Quick turning the handlebars a bit more put me back in my lane fast. But here in fla there is a lot of squirrely drivers, so i now just don't try pushing the trike around the corners if there's any traffic at all. My testing was done on the twisty road that runs a block away and somewhat parallel to the street i live on. At first i thought the ryker was very darty, but now i seem to feel the trike more and i push it a bit more , so the dartiness doesn't feel there anymore. Perhaps breaking in the suspension helps there too.
The only effect Cambered roads have on the ryker is it tries to slowly move to the outside of the road. It is easily corrected by just a slight more turn in on the handlebars. I haven't tried going faster than 50-60 on paved roads i have not been on before. Even I-75 has a few cambered sections of the highway but they do not seem to affect the ryker at all. I guess they are not cambered very steeply. I do notice that the ryker seems to make every road a bit harsher than my Rav4. I need a windshield too, LOL
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Post by Admin on Mar 8, 2019 10:58:05 GMT -5
I forgot to say that i saved most of the pinterest pictures(full size) along with most of the old forums thread pictures. There are some pic's that are missing and some of the thread pictures are small sized(no resize option), but i saved everything i could. If you could start your thread on this forum we could get started filling everything in.
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Post by liteway on Mar 8, 2019 11:36:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply to my question. Appreciate the details.
Constant or slowly transitioning road camber is no problem for me, as in banked turns or road crests. Its quick camber transitions resulting from the road sinking unevenly across the lane on poorly maintained secondary roads and some older state highways that trip up the trike's stability. Lots of those in Oklahoma.
It actually feels pretty well planted zipping down the I 40 at 80. That is so long as the surface is good and there is no major crosswind in which case passing or being passed by a simi brings on the pucker factor. Sorta like being on a bike in that way.
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