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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:21:51 GMT -5
Very unique design it appears the two steering handles move opposite directions in a fairly linear fashion with proportion to the wheel track. I'm sure it would take some getting used to when trying it for the first time, I could see why googd center return tracking is so important. Just thinking, had I used sticks to steer everything since time began till I was 55 and then used a wheel for the first time, would I have been able to stay out of the ditch?
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:22:29 GMT -5
The first Elio reverse trike was based off of a Metro front wheel drive unit. Small and lite as for front wheel drive.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:23:06 GMT -5
Indeed, if they will reach their announced target weight of 1300 lbs, it will be the lightest front driver I ever heard of, but it if arrives with air, pwr windows, and other goodies promised, its about as likely to reach that weight as its promised production date. First 2014, then 2015, then 2016. Not sure if they ever promised 2017 or just skipped to their latest date of 2018. Price target is now 7300. That's fantasy too. By the specs, I expect it will reach production (if ever) at 1700 or 1800 lbs and so not reach 85mpg or anywhere close. 55hp. Not enough.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:23:48 GMT -5
Indeed, if they will reach their announced target weight of 1300 lbs, it will be the lightest front driver I ever heard of, but it if arrives with air, pwr windows, and other goodies promised, its about as likely to reach that weight as its promised production date. First 2014, then 2015, then 2016. Not sure if they ever promised 2017 or just skipped to their latest date of 2018. Price target is now 7300. That's fantasy too. By the specs, I expect it will reach production (if ever) at 1700 or 1800 lbs and so not reach 85mpg or anywhere close. 55hp. Not enough. I have said this from the beginning of Eleo. I have three friends that have put the $1000 nonrefundable deposit down.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:24:22 GMT -5
Method of of checking toe, bump steer, ackerman. The 2 black lines are laid out parallel to the chassis. The silver line is a piece of aluminum bar attached to the face of the brake disk. The angular difference represents static toe. Ackerman effect is determined by comparing the angular difference at maximum steering lock left then right after adjusting toe to the desired angle. Bump steer is measured by moving the suspension through its range of travel while watching for a change in the angular difference. I had learned this before but forgotten; Bump steer is much more readily affected by relocation of the tie rod ends vertically as opposed to changing their length, though the length should be close to optimal also. If the angle of the tie rods are not correct in relation to the A arms, no amount of length changes will work to eliminate bump steer. I am no expert. If anybody sees misinformation here, by all means feel free to discus or correct. I found about a 2 degree difference in toe depending upon whether the suspension was at max rebound or compression. This was corrected to 0 by raising the outboard tie rod ends 7.5 mm. Don't know how much this will improve stability. I have other work to do (Rear brake, thicker front susp. push rods, body work) before I can get it back on the road.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:24:53 GMT -5
Nice shoes too. Ackerman angle is a tough nut to crack. Using over the counter car parts you have to get the wheel base and track close to what the donor car was.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:25:31 GMT -5
That's right. The Mustang II, the Can Am Spyder and most production spindles have cast in steering arms that limit achieving optimal Ackerman angles except by moving the steering forward or back, which may not work out with other design parameters. This is why I cut off the stock steering arms and bolted on ones that worked better for me. The stock ones were too high, too long and angled incorrectly, otherwise they were just right.ha. As compared to the Spyder, my trike has a longer wheelbase, wider track and an odd steering arrangement. It would have been strange if the uprights worked well without modification. Come to think, the Spyder steering is a bit odd too, but in a different way.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:26:14 GMT -5
Having carburetor problems probably due to the prolonged period the trike was idle while the new front end was provisioned. I have had them off three times cleaning, installing kits. Still will not idle below 3000 rpm without full choke. I was already thinking to up grade the engine. First choice was an fz09 donor, but the type is too recent and a running example cannot be found (so far) for less than 55 hundred. Plenty of wrecks available in on line actions, but they require dealer license. My second choice for the appropriate power and weight is a honda 919 nighthawk. Not interested in another high strung crotch rocket motor that does not come alive below 6000. Need more low end launching grunt and more sensible gear ratio spreads than a full on track bike. Bringing along a ram air system can be problematic also. 1. Looking for between 100 and 125hp at the rear wheel. 100 is just enough, at my weight/weight distribution any more that 125 will be wasted in tire smoke without switching to a wider rim than is available with most bikes. I am assuming (oh oh) that I can get a 205 section tire to work ok on a 5.5 in wide rim 2. Not much heavier than 150 lb motor trans I have now. 3. >60 ft lbs of torque available below 6000rpm. 4. Less than 12k miles of prior use. Under consideration in order of preference. rim width approx rear wheel hp Yamaha FZ 09 5.5 105 Honda 919 Nighthawk (Hornet) 5.5 100 Kawasaki Z1000 6.0 120 Triumph Speed Triple 1000 6.0 120 Yamaha FZ1 5.5 125
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:26:56 GMT -5
I seen a great motor for your project 115hp with reverse+ on Copart, it the newer can am 3 cylinder vortex. Since you used some of the can am front end components, you might want to consider their engine /trans package. With multi valve, throttle body fuel injection, no more carburetor issues. The 2 cylinder vortex is simular at 106hp and 77 ftlbs of torque. You can buy from Copart without a dealers license for a service fee, haven't bought from them personally, but have seen many great deals on there website, good luck!
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:27:26 GMT -5
I seen a great motor for your project 115hp with reverse+ on Copart, it the newer can am 3 cylinder vortex. Since you used some of the can am front end components, you might want to consider their engine /trans package. With multi valve, throttle body fuel injection, no more carburetor issues. The 2 cylinder vortex is simular at 106hp and 77 ftlbs of torque. You can buy from Copart without a dealers license for a service fee, haven't bought from them personally, but have seen many great deals on there website, good luck! It's not a bad idea. The wide rear wheel and reverse would be great advantages. Can you give me a link to copart info on that specific engine? Not really the type of engine I'm interested in though, as my goals are to keep the trike as light, agile and quick as possible. Considering the engine's size (1300 cc plus), the output (115 at the crank, more like 100-105 at the rear wheel) is not impressive, and about the same as the 850 cc Yamaha FZ09 which am guessing to be not much more than half the weight of the Spyder's engine. Of course the Spyder engine will have bags more torque, but I really don't need that in a trike that is a least 250/300lbs lighter. If I were making a side by side that was in the same weight class as the Spyder, I would look at it more seriously, but its really a motor made for cruising rather than sport so not my mission which is more auto cross and track day as opposed to taking the wife or grand kids on jaunts. I am wary of purchasing any engine not in a running vehicle that has all the drive line parts, computers, wiring, intake and exhaust parts long with it. I was not aware copart sells to non-dealers for an extra fee. That is also good info. Thanks.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:28:10 GMT -5
In most states, Copart will sell salvage title items to the public. To bid on clear titled items you can get a Buyers Agent to bid for a fee. Copart has a variable Buyer's fee that at the lower cost items is a bit high at about 14%. Then they have a gate fee, an Internet fee and if your state has sales tax that too. A $625 bid can end up at $950 or more after all fees are added. This is true for all auctions, not just Copart. As a basic member you have a top bid of $1000. But you can buy up, with a refundable fee to raise the top bid. I have bought three vehicles from Copart. I did win the bid on another, a 2006 Subaru Forester XT but the seller (All State Insurance) pulled it after I won and demanded more, another $750. At the time they did not have a "Reserve" price but Copart had a notice in the rules that a seller could refuse the bid for any reason. I filed a complaint and now they have a "Reserve" price on some items.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:29:06 GMT -5
There is a 2cyl 990cc vortex engine with transfer, ecu,etc with 1100 miles on it listed for $1800 on Craigslist Atlanta, Ga.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:29:47 GMT -5
Having carburetor problems probably due to the prolonged period the trike was idle while the new front end was provisioned. I have had them off three times cleaning, installing kits. Still will not idle below 3000 rpm without full choke. I was already thinking to up grade the engine. First choice was an fz09 donor, but the type is too recent and a running example cannot be found (so far) for less than 55 hundred. Plenty of wrecks available in on line actions, but they require dealer license. My second choice for the appropriate power and weight is a honda 919 nighthawk. Not interested in another high strung crotch rocket motor that does not come alive below 6000. Need more low end launching grunt and more sensible gear ratio spreads than a full on track bike. Bringing along a ram air system can be problematic also. 1. Looking for between 100 and 125hp at the rear wheel. 100 is just enough, at my weight/weight distribution any more that 125 will be wasted in tire smoke without switching to a wider rim than is available with most bikes. I am assuming (oh oh) that I can get a 205 section tire to work ok on a 5.5 in wide rim 2. Not much heavier than 150 lb motor trans I have now. 3. >60 ft lbs of torque available below 6000rpm. 4. Less than 12k miles of prior use. Under consideration in order of preference. rim width approx rear wheel hp Yamaha FZ 09 5.5 105 Honda 919 Nighthawk (Hornet) 5.5 100 Kawasaki Z1000 6.0 120 Triumph Speed Triple 1000 6.0 120 Yamaha FZ1 5.5 125 Finally got my carbs working so I will likely put off any possible engine swap until next winter. Plenty of time to find the donor. I can find no source for engine weight information, so mostly I'm guessing by comparing engine dimensions and total vehicle weight. The Night Hawk engine is out. For me,the most critical dimension is length from the swing arm pivot to front/top of head, which affects wheelbase length, so shorter is better. I am not concerned about swing arm length as I will likely make my own. For the Night Hawk that is 28 inches vs my current motor's 21.5. Both the FZ09 and Kaws. z1000 motors are shorter at 20.7 and 21 respectively. That the Z1000 motor is shorter than my 600 was unexpected. Those are the leading candidates though the Yamaha is still favored because it is lighter and narrower, so should require less tube hacking and have greater mounting flexibility. Both engines are notable for low end torque vs most all-out sport bike engines but still rev to 10k plus. With my trikes light weight, it should be possible to retain stock gearing for easy cruising and good gas mileage without excessive clutch slipping for launches. Kaw does have 6 " width wheel vs the Yamaha's 5.5, a plus for it.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:30:35 GMT -5
There is a 2cyl 990cc vortex engine with transfer, ecu,etc with 1100 miles on it listed for $1800 on Craigslist Atlanta, Ga. Thanks for the tip Joe, but that motor does not interest me. Only about 85hp at the rear wheel from what I have best been able to determine on line. Also, as with most vertical twins, it is reported to be a bit coarse, and reluctant to rev, but without the advantage of good fuel economy you usually see with this configuration. Not to say its a bad engine but its intended purpose would seem to be to provide flexible (low end) power for the relatively heavy Spyder that may be loaded with luggage and a passenger. Its not made to provide a top end rush for a lighter package.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:31:06 GMT -5
Yeah, the engine length from front to axle centerline is a big factor. Take my current Burgman 650. It has a parallel twin with 54 HP but with the computer controlled CVT it acts like a bike of 70 HP. But it is layed over and not upright, 47 inches from the front valve cover to axle centerline. As it sets in the frame, the valve cover is forward of where your heels are on the floorboards.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:31:47 GMT -5
I could see it working if the rider is willing to straddle and sit a bit higher,like a sprint car. It could make a very compact package with reasonable cg height with the engine/drive line down low. You would be at eye level with traffic. Commuter Trike?
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:32:21 GMT -5
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:32:54 GMT -5
If it looks like a DUCK, walks like a DUCK and quacks like a DUCK, is it a DOG? Saying it is a SCAM without proof would be wrong on my part but... Would I invest in one? Hellno! I have been following ELIO for years and I do have friends and acquaintances that have invested and they are still acting like they will get theirs soon, year after year. Caveat emptor
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:33:45 GMT -5
Details, Details. Shows fabricated and bolted on steering arm and speedo pickup. The only place I could use for magnet mounting was drilling 3 recesses in the brake disc. That will be ok provided the disk does not heat to 600 degrees at which point the magnets will fall out. Spacers placed at upper ball joint mounts allow camber adjustments. I was left with missing panel after suspension upgrade. Old one no longer fit. 1/8" aluminum spacers on either side of a-arm bushings can be juggled to allow up to a 1/4" difference in fore/aft placement of both lower and upper arms making a wide range of castor settings possible. Made in two parts so it could be removed without detaching steering,suspension, or brake line parts. Because of a combination of lots of steering lock and very negative offset wheels, it was difficult to keep the brake line from kinking or rubbing the tire at max lock, so I made a slot in the cover plate to allow it more freedom of movement.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:34:39 GMT -5
Great Detail, I like the panels round the suspension That is always a difficult area to get looking right.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:35:52 GMT -5
I have had some time to evaluate the new front end. It's a mixed bag. Stronger brakes. Flatter, more secure feeling in wide corners. Stronger self centering. More steering lock resulting in tighter u turns. The negative. Annoying kick back at speed. Harsher ride. More understeer in tight turns. Also I can no longer balance front/rear braking with adjustments in linkage as I could before. Proportioning valve is on order and I am researching steering dampers.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:36:40 GMT -5
All clean and gassed, headed into the city at 6:15am for Cars and Coffee. Supposed to be 45 in the morning, but to warm quickly. Later; Next morning, Cars and Coffee. After trip over on secondary roads, I gained more confidence and used I35/I40 on the way back at speeds from 60 to 85. 45mins on the 2 lanes, 35 or 40 on the interstates form my home in the small east side suburb of Choctaw to The North Park Mall lot on The NW side of OKC.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:37:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip Joe, but that motor does not interest me. Only about 85hp at the rear wheel from what I have best been able to determine on line. Also, as with most vertical twins, it is reported to be a bit coarse, and reluctant to rev, but without the advantage of good fuel economy you usually see with this configuration. Not to say its a bad engine but its intended purpose would seem to be to provide flexible (low end) power for the relatively heavy Spyder that may be loaded with luggage and a passenger. Its not made to provide a top end rush for a lighter package. My bad Joe, its a v twin, not a vertical. Same basic engine was used in an Aprilia sport bike (RSV Mille 1998-2003) so It can't be the lump I imagined. It actually might serve well for what I need. If only I were half as smart as I think I am, I'd then be twice as smart as I really am.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:38:09 GMT -5
Copart has several 990cc vortex twin cyl.can am Spyder's and currently one of the new 1330 Ace (2015+) motors. Of course inventory always changing, you may get lots of other good parts out of a salvage. Your detail pics look good, best of luck!
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:38:49 GMT -5
Progress report. Softer spring rates and lowering tire pressures have done wonders for the ride quality. Not so much for the handling but changes can be reversed in a short time if I ever get the opportunity for autocross or track day. Kickback is also lessened to an acceptable level so I'm relieved I don't have to figure out mounting a steering damper. Proportioning valve installation has the brakes balanced. About the only thing left for this phase is getting the fenders back on, as a small puddle encountered with the wheels cocked gives a nasty road shower. I've deleted some more paint, and if fingerprints don't drive me crazy, I could go farther. ibb.co/mDh9aQibb.co/eTcaFQ
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:40:05 GMT -5
Near as I can tell, photo bucket now demands 40 bucks a month for third party picture posting, so that is the end for me.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:40:38 GMT -5
For now Imgsafe.org is working. There are a few img hosting sites better than PhotoBucket. Imgur.com and Ipfs.Pic are some that Google says are safe TODAY. As always, use web sites at your own risks and have a good virus protection installed.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:41:41 GMT -5
Question for Liteway. Do you have copies of the build's pictures? If you were to somehow send them to me in a Zip file or whatever, I could try to edit this build and replace some of the pictures. I have the time to do this. Or just give me the PhotoBucket User name and password and I can download the pictures in a zip file and edit your thread. I am sure they would let you change the password to an easy one for me to use. I know they will compile all your pictures into a Zip file, email you when they are ready then you download that file, open it and then you can re-host them elsewhere. It is such a shame all these type build threads will be deleted from history over GREED of a host site. A lot of Admin support teams are working around fixes but not an easy task.
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:43:52 GMT -5
Completion of DS-1 to DS-2 conversion. DS-3 is pending. DS-2 = Door Stop 2, or Design Stage 2, or my favorite, Deer Scoop 2
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Post by liteway on Mar 16, 2019 9:44:31 GMT -5
Dave, does the Pinterest post above affect our data usage?
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