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Post by TomyJ on Dec 24, 2018 13:48:01 GMT -5
OK, OK, Ok... One more mock up, then the upper frame rails and upper control arm brackets, then mock again with steering, And will be on the ground at this point. Dec 30 is motorcycle swap meet, I'll be looking for twin shock and jack shaft sprockets, 3.5" and Harley 530 chain and Honda 520 chain AND... To all of you my friends Thank You and Happy New Year... With all our trikes running in 2019
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 24, 2018 14:08:25 GMT -5
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 24, 2018 20:57:16 GMT -5
And the winner is, and the top mount also lines up with the upper frame rails, Merry Christmas all you guy's...
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ahweh
New Member
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Post by ahweh on Dec 25, 2018 0:04:51 GMT -5
I posted this in the other thread as well i hope that is not a problem.
I'll bet that you are happy to be getting closer to a solution to your problem.
Doing it that way you can also double up on the pull rod by putting both of them to the outside of the bellcrank (if that is the oroper name for it) and putting a spacer between the bellcrank where the rod is now.
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 25, 2018 13:31:53 GMT -5
Here's another view, the tie rod ends are 7/16x20 L&R threads, the tubing will be DOM 3/8x5/8 drilled and taped
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 25, 2018 19:55:16 GMT -5
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ahweh
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Post by ahweh on Dec 26, 2018 4:52:19 GMT -5
Sorry but there are no pictures showing for me.
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 26, 2018 13:42:01 GMT -5
Mock up seat, To low maybe? Or will chain and jack shaft raise the seat?
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 26, 2018 20:19:21 GMT -5
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Post by Kolibri on Dec 29, 2018 18:32:03 GMT -5
Hello Tom,
nice work. I'm Ralf an live in Germany and was a member of the old forum and built the "125ccm Kolibri reverseretrike". Before you go further with your good looking design make sure that the shock is really damping in this laying position. It could be possible that it can not work because oil and valves are not in a standing position.
I had this great problem and had to change the front suspension complete.
Greetings from Germany
Ralf
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 29, 2018 23:43:29 GMT -5
Hi Ralf, Thank you for the info. This is 1 of the 2 reasons why I went with a push-pull rod suspension, easy adjustable and if the shock is not right, then replace it...
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 29, 2018 23:46:35 GMT -5
Sorry but there are no pictures showing for me. Take off the helmet, you must have it on backwards, heeheehee...
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ahweh
New Member
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Post by ahweh on Dec 30, 2018 3:24:09 GMT -5
Now that I can see the pictures.
What size tubing are you using on your a-arms?
To me it looks like 1.25 in for the arm part and something over that for the mounts.
Also where did you find the mount bushings?
As they look like they have a .5 in bolt or bigger in them
I am in the process of designing a leaner and do not want to make thing to light or to heavy.
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 30, 2018 14:15:19 GMT -5
This is the way to go for my build, coil over and pull rod is just off center to the right and the swing arm brace left side will play host to the jack shaft mount, again guys this is still in mock up with all tack welding. Now notice the upper shock mount it was going to thick steel and brass bushing, Butt I decided a extra heim joint should do the job??? What do you guys think???
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Post by liteway on Dec 30, 2018 14:19:39 GMT -5
Hi Ralf, Thank you for the info. This is 1 of the 2 reasons why I went with a push-pull rod suspension, easy adjustable and if the shock is not right, then replace it... Just to elaborate on Ralf's concern; Most shocks are bi tube designs with valving not designed to work correctly when shock is mounted horizontally. It should be of a monotube design if mounted this way. QA1 and AFCO are examples but there are others. I found I was able to use conventional shocks that did not work properly laid flat if I mounted them about 15 to 20 degrees off horizontal. At least I think they are working ok now. Not sure how often you can get away with that though.
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 30, 2018 19:19:39 GMT -5
Tomorrow will be a little paint and tack welding the frame and brackets I hope...
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Post by liteway on Dec 30, 2018 19:44:48 GMT -5
Now that I can see the pictures. What size tubing are you using on your a-arms? To me it looks like 1.25 in for the arm part and something over that for the mounts. Also where did you find the mount bushings? As they look like they have a .5 in bolt or bigger in them I am in the process of designing a leaner and do not want to make thing to light or to heavy. Hello Aheweh. Can Am Spyder uses 3/4" dia. .090 wall on the top and 1" dia, .110 wall on the bottom. Might be a good place to start if you expect to have a similar weight up front. I know this because I have some scraps left over from the arms I modified for use on mine. Spyder uses neoprene bushings. Needle bearings are better. No give means alignment is held better under load. Less friction too. Size bearing shells for the bearings rather than the other way around as there are more tubing sizes available than bearing sizes. You can find out what bearing sets are available for a certain atv's and size your shells accordingly Many racers use bronze. Most production cars use neoprene and many ATVs use needle bearings.
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ahweh
New Member
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Post by ahweh on Dec 31, 2018 19:22:06 GMT -5
Thanks for the information.
I already have most of the front suspension out of a 2008 Can Am Spyder and have found that I will need two bottom a-arms per side so they are of equal length but I would have to heavily modify them so I am using them for reference and designing my own around them with a bit larger tubing size.
I am thinking of using bent hooped laminated bamboo in a carbon fiber shell for the frame as well as the body and inserting metal where there are areas of friction or mounting points.
The bamboo carbon fiber frame and body should be strong enough for a trike and also make it a lot lighter.
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Post by TomyJ on Dec 31, 2018 19:26:53 GMT -5
Thanks for the information. I already have most of the front suspension out of a 2008 Can Am Spyder and have found that I will need two bottom a-arms per side so they are of equal length but I would have to heavily modify them so I am using them for reference and designing my own around them with a bit larger tubing size. I am thinking of using bent hooped laminated bamboo in a carbon fiber shell for the frame as well as the body and inserting metal where there are areas of friction or mounting points. The bamboo carbon fiber frame and body should be strong enough for a trike and also make it a lot lighter. Now you are starting to scare me, I hope it works out...
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ahweh
New Member
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Post by ahweh on Jan 1, 2019 19:42:06 GMT -5
By Tadpole (Now you are starting to scare me, I hope it works out...)
HaHa I do that to people at times on a number of things.
As I am an Energy Healing Practioner and a majority of the people of the small Haunted city I live in are afraid of what I do.
If I may ask what scares you about what I would like to do?
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 3, 2019 13:14:06 GMT -5
By Tadpole (Now you are starting to scare me, I hope it works out...) HaHa I do that to people at times on a number of things. As I am an Energy Healing Practioner and a majority of the people of the small Haunted city I live in are afraid of what I do. If I may ask what scares you about what I would like to do? The word "Bamboo"...
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 4, 2019 20:09:58 GMT -5
Getting closer to add the final measurements and weld for the swing arm set up to the frame...
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 5, 2019 20:00:18 GMT -5
Damn, The lower swing arm bracket will hit the shock mount, back to the drawing board, I want to keep all pieces straight and level with the frame? Sooo, the shock will be centered with the swing arm bracket and I hope level, the two sets of pull rods will install beside the shock I HOPE, New drawings tomorrow and back to the machinist on Monday and he is cutting the 30 degree angles on the upper rails which will be ready for welding next week... Edit:I keep looking at this first photo and think maybe the top of the shock should be a little higher???
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 6, 2019 20:01:43 GMT -5
A little higher at the top of the shock and one pull rod on the outside...
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 9, 2019 13:25:51 GMT -5
More higher and now to far out, this part of the build is giving me the FITS (pooop) I am working with the machinist this week for this bracket ( and order 2 more heim joints) and the upper frame rails with the 30 degree kick out to clear the engine...
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 9, 2019 19:36:29 GMT -5
While the machinist is making new brackets for the shock top, it will give 15-20 degree angle then I will rework the bottom mounts. Mean while I need 2.5 inch clearance for the angle for the upper rails so the front rails will be 8.5" wide and flare out for the engine clearance to 16.5" wide and tie in the swing arm brace, I hope, just about ready for the upper control arm brackets to be welded on, install the arms, brakes, steering, AND start fighting the front coil overs...
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 11, 2019 20:37:25 GMT -5
Back from the machine shop and these upper shock brackets will work great, 1/4 thick, Now to the lower brackets and lease we remember tack the first side then add spacer same size as shock + .005-.010 for welding, lower shock bracket is a little too close to the shock end for my liking so redesign...
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 11, 2019 22:53:37 GMT -5
Jake, the reason that most just use a factory swing arm is to avoid what you are going thru.
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 12, 2019 11:58:26 GMT -5
Jake, the reason that most just use a factory swing arm is to avoid what you are going thru. Thank You Dave, You are so right, It is much easier to take motorcycle and off the forks and bolt the remains to a frame, Ohhh and the wiring, my head is really going to hurt, maybe I will farm it out...
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Post by TomyJ on Jan 15, 2019 18:55:40 GMT -5
No photos today. Dropped off drawings and material for the machinist today and hope to get them back tomorrow then more tack welding and the rear suspension should work and be ready for full welding after I move onto the upper frame and control arm brackets, then, OMG! the front coil over shocks with bellcranks and push pull rods...
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