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Post by TomyJ on Nov 4, 2018 13:42:30 GMT -5
Chain drive seems to be pretty straight forward, just use the swing arm and wheel with the engine that you got from the parts bike? BUT if you want to build something different, a RT with a V8 or other auto engine to chain drive, lets look at one of your/my options. One of my designs (Shenanigans) with side by side seating, drive shaft from a GM quad 4 with 180 HP and auto shift and the possibility of enclosed with heat, I am thinking of this for REAL... So lets start with the chain drive section, FMC T-Bird/cobra (the cheap one) IRS unit we call a pumpkin with no drive axels, instead a sprocket on one side and a disc brake set up on the other side. Something is wrong with Image safe photos so lets try it another way? ![]() Maybe later (Damn Image Safe)... |
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Post by davej98002 on Nov 4, 2018 14:55:47 GMT -5
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 5, 2018 12:20:40 GMT -5
My Image Safe is not working for me? Just add disc brakes on each side?  |
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Post by davej98002 on Nov 5, 2018 14:25:59 GMT -5
Imgsafe is not working for lots of people.
TomyJ's picture is of a chain driven CV shaft diff for a car or Delta trike and will not work for a reverse trike unless you use it up front for frontwheel drive.
The Quad 4's auto trans will be shaft drive so you will need a modified car diff with locked center and a sprocket/chain to the swingarm'ed axle. Or find a large BMW K1600 GTL's swingarm and rear diff, it may hold up.
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 5, 2018 17:09:53 GMT -5
 Yeaaaaa!!! Image safe is back up... Thank you Dave for keeping me in line with my thoughts because here, I will be looking for a economy IRS system such as this T-Bird unit with dual chains and the disc off the differential? or sprockets and disc's side by side? |
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Post by davej98002 on Nov 5, 2018 18:19:51 GMT -5
If you pop the rear cover off and have a good welder put a lot of metal on the spyder gears and side gears so they have NO slop/play tit will make it so you could mount a Chain sprocket on one side and a brake rotor on the other. I'd have to look and see if SummitRacing.com has a 'Mini-Spool" that fits inside that diff and does a better job than welding the gears.
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Post by Tonico on Feb 26, 2019 13:47:13 GMT -5
This is fundamentally the same layout as the Polaris Slingshot. They came up with a 90 degree drive box to go from the drive shaft to the chain (belt) drive. I have looked high and low and the only thing I can find is exactly what you are thinking of doing with an IRS diff. You may want to consider the Mazda Miata diff which also uses bolt on CV's. Actually you could probably use the whole Miata as a single donor. You'd have decent pieces to build the front suspension/brakes/steering and the engine/trans. They are popular with the Locost crowd (http://www.locostusa.com/forums/). In fact I have considered starting with the Locost design and modify the rear to one wheel. Something like the Skunk Malone (just Google it)
Tony
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Post by Admin on Feb 26, 2019 15:33:05 GMT -5
Years ago the drag racers just welded the spider gears in a regular rear end to make the axles locked. This easy and cheap method could work for you since even a small car rear end could take pretty good HP when only one tire is taking the load. You would become the burnout king in short order simply because even 100 HP on one tire would cause it to over-spin quickly. I'm not recommending this but i know that it worked on drag cars many years without breakage. Here's how. board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=24174.0I you like spending money you can buy a Spool(cylinder that locks both axles together). Doesn't work any better than welded spider gears, just looks better. The open differential  The Spool differential  Jim |
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Post by davej98002 on Feb 26, 2019 20:39:33 GMT -5
I have welded a few. I clean the gears real well with brake cleaner, and vent well. Wire feed welder using 0.030" wire and C02/Argon gas. Then I tack each gear tooth well and then turn my wire feed to max AMP and about 10 on the wire speed and do small circles filling the gaps between the teeth.
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