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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 22:55:55 GMT -5
You guys might consider ATV shocks. They are made for vehicles much closer to your weight than auto shocks are and obviously made for abuse. I ordered a set of YSS gas shocks for mine about 5 yrs ago. I did not know what the spring rate should be so I gave them the weight carried at the front corners and they selected for me. They were too soft but they exchanged for the next increment stiffer with no hassle, even paid shipping. Something made to hold up the back of Harley or Goldwing would work too. Find any bike with a two shock rear that approximately matches the weight you have on the front and you are going to be in the ballpark. Fine tuning can be done with the bell cranks.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 22:58:06 GMT -5
Never mind the last dumb question. Over 3 inches of wheel travel the difference is less than .040" duh. JBB Not a dumb question. I refer you to pages 6&7 of "Bandit Trike Project" under build projects.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 22:59:28 GMT -5
You have encountered the classic problem with rear wheel driven reverse trikes that are designed with too little rear weight bias for the HP they are trying to put to the ground.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:00:28 GMT -5
First trike I built I made my own coilovers with a $20.00 Monroe gas shock from the front of a Chrysler Cordoba (remember the Corinthian leather), a $20.00 coilover spring and machined a threaded sleeve to mate them together. That shock was easy to work with, as it has a threaded stud on each end. As they were cheap gas filled units they had to be mounted top pointing up. Used them on all four corners, worked great. Did not have a sway bar and when overpowering the tires the trike would do a nice flat sideways slide with very little body roll. Shock and spring possibilities are endless.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:01:32 GMT -5
Triplethreat-- I read the pages you suggested. Thank you. I have always thought keeping a constant tension or slack in the chain is important and agree the distance between the drive sprocket and the pivot point should be as small as possible. Of course that doesn't affect how long the swing arm can be. I haven't determined what arm length is best for my project yet but am glad to read other's experiences. JBB
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:02:20 GMT -5
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:03:18 GMT -5
Gotta love those Quik Grip clamps! I have found them to be invaluable. Even the mini Harbor Freight ones work great.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:05:25 GMT -5
Hey Captain, back after taking time on my Ducati, Ouch, you could have been in serious sh!t if that failed while you were doing some wheelies! Was it a slow progressive fail or did it just happen on a drive out?
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:06:29 GMT -5
Shig, I am actually not sure, it was something I didn't notice until it was already quite twisted up. My guess is it was progressive but the road work on the my drive to work every day really put the nail in the coffin. They ground out the asphalt on either side of a bridge I drive over to make way for the new pavement, for a few days there I was hitting a good 2" lip up to the concrete of the bridge at 55mph which is quite an impact. The fix has shown no issues yet so I think it will be more then strong enough. I also installed a sway bar last week which totally changes the way the thing drives for the better, sadly is was hastily thrown together and ended up failing after 80 miles, but I have the real deal coming soon with a blade type adjustable setup so that will be nice.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:08:08 GMT -5
It doesn't rain a lot here in NC but it does rain often, haven't driven it to work at all this week as thunder storms seem to roll in every afternoon. I do have time to work in the garage on the weekends though so I am pushing ever closer to stripping it down for paint, seam welded the mirror mounts and made a hole in the back side behind the mount structure that allows for wiring and mirror nut removal, before they were permanent attachments unless I cut the mount structure off. I have one head light out, apparently its crappy and broke internally at some solder points, so i fixed it but the solder didn't hold overly well so now the light blows the fuse if its on for more then a few minutes in parallel with the other side. Legally i can forgo it, and I will, until I get the motivation to hook it to the high beam circuit so it has its own fuse and power wire. I rolled through 1300 miles this past weekend without an issue. In other news the state would like a title bond before they give me an actual title, apparently me saying I built it wasn't enough for them, I feel like showing them this forum page and saying here! give me my title! Finally got my new sway bar put together, badly again, I am in fact lazy sometimes especially when I have the choice between driving it and working on it and so it broke again. Only noticed it when I took the nose cone off to take the photo. It had almost zero stiffness anyway through that 1/2" tube from the feel of the car so I was planning on replacing it anyway, probably with 3/4" and maybe some better steel.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:09:10 GMT -5
As I look at your anti-roll set up I just don't get it. It looks designed to bust welds loose or twist the vertical tube to a point of permanent deformation. How can there be enough give in a 1ft (or less) length of tubing to accommodate independent compression, rebound in the front wheels? If you beef it up enough not to break, you will greatly limit independent movement. I can see how it might work for racers, where there is little regard for suspension travel, and anti-roll is paramount over compliance, but it looks ill suited to street machines working in the real world of potholes and broken pavement. You might try moving the attachment point on the bell cranks closer to the main pivot, decreasing the amount of motion at the ends on the top of the T, and therefore the amount of twist asked of the vertical member. Mild steel? Most homemade bars are of 4130.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:09:52 GMT -5
I've actually been lazy as of late. I have a video to upload of me strippin the spartan of all parts prepping for paint. Now I am waiting for the powder coating shop to have time so I haven't had the chance to drive in almost three weeks. Trying to get everything together for the one time rebuild, getting all the switches soldered, wiring harness wrapped and so on.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:10:49 GMT -5
July '14 For those of you with time on your hands, or just super into trikes here is the full length version of the spartan being disassembled for paint. In total it took about 6 hours from drive able to bare chassis. Sadly I took time to finish all the little things and then primer it and now I am paying the powder coating shop to sand blast the whole thing. Going gloss black for the chassis, still trying to decide if I want to make the suspension parts a different color. Hoping to be back in the drivers seat in two weeks. Part 1 Part 2 Below is the time lapse link, much more entertaining. I plan to edit the video this weekend and time lapse it down to about five minutes instead of five hours.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:11:38 GMT -5
Try this one, 12 minutes and just funny to watch me at hyperspeed.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:19:43 GMT -5
I agree. That design will continue to fail. Take a look at Triplethreats setup. The part that has to twist must be made of the correct materials and be "supported" properly.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:21:54 GMT -5
August 3rd, 2014 The finished product is here, minus a few tweaks. Really glad I went with powder coating, kinda wish I added more color but it turned out nice anyway. I spent a lot of extra time on the rebuild getting everything in a position to stay for good especially with the wiring hardness. I hooked it all up and it turned over on the first try. The brakes still need a better bleed and it is over heating, but I think I have that figured out, vac leak making it run super lean, gonna try and fix it tonight. Things I added, custom designed high misalignment pieces for much higher strength rod ends at the wheels, heat shielding on the drivers back side, routing the wiring harness under the driver instead of around the side, new clutch, painted the stator cover (for the complainers). First test drive we a few minutes ago, engine was running super hot, 250 range, killed it to look for the issue.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:22:54 GMT -5
Hi Andy, Looking good! Bike motors can be a bear to bleed after the coolant system has been opened. I usually start it, let it get hot, shut it off, let cool and draw coolant from the overflow tank. Repeat several times and then you are good to go. Jim
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:24:22 GMT -5
Putting a feeler out to the crowd of builders and fans on this site. I am considering taking my design to a commercial level and selling it as a non-street legal kit (ie off road) you put together and register it under your own states requirements. Initially it would be offered to work with any 04-08 GSXR 600-1000cc bike as a donor. The kit would come with anything that doesn't come on the bike, chassis, suspension, wheel outers, steering, pedals, brake system, wheels, etc. I am running the numbers currently but expect the cost to customer to be in the range of $12,000 plus the cost of the donor bike. Is there any serious interest here? just send me a message and let me know what you think.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:27:39 GMT -5
Morning Captain, For what it's worth in my opinion you would be better to create a easy to follow detailed set of plans for all us want to be trike builders, for you to go into production of your kit trike I would imagine this set up would put you considerable out of pocket which will need sales to recoup. When you consider your cost is around $12,000 + $6,000 ish (donor bike) + transport $ for the kit it's a fair wack of money which may limit your market and return on investment. As you have demonstrated with your CAD drawing ability your plans for the Trike could be marketed world wide not just the USA giving you a much larger customer base with far less outlay and possible greater profit than the kit. My 2 cent's worth. By the way it looks fantastic Ned
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:29:11 GMT -5
Sept 2014 So after a few weeks of head scratching about my cooling problems I finally figured it out. The issue was inability to keep the engine temps down during driving, at idle they would begin to come down but I usually wasn't idling that long. For those of you reading this, it probably seems backwards I would imagine, cold when idling, how when running when the air should be flowing the best. Turns out that the wires to the fan were backwards, by color they matched the system but because I am running a pusher fan not a puller the direction needed to be reversed. Which in the case of a DC motor you just switch the wires. This meant that the moment I hit 225 the fan would kick over pulling air away from the radiator and pretty much stopping the cooling system. Previously I was running in the 220-240F range, one little change, 200-225F range. The moment I hit 225 and the fan kicks on the temps drop, very frustrating problem but an easy fix at the end of the day luckily. Andrew
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:30:19 GMT -5
Sept 2014 Got materials on the cheap from a friend and poured myself a seat with an over sized trash bag. It worked okay except there was two much foam so I had to lean forward during the process to allow the foam to expand the bag without pouring over onto me. The stuff gets really hot during the process but the finished product definitely sticks me into place around the corners. Its not as pretty as I would have liked, and as comfortable as the seat is it alters my position slightly causing my knees to pretty much wedge against the gauge cluster (they did this before just not as bad). This is painful when you hit pot holes so it causes me to be rather tense while driving which causes fatigue quickly. Little kinks to work out, having watch my coworker at NASCAR do this for two of our drivers and now having done it myself and seeing both results I say experience has a lot to do with it. I am temped to grind out knee arches in the gauge cluster bar if things stay the way they are. My friend is so small he has to have a couple pillows behind him to reach the pedals with his legs straight out. Its funny how that works, on the new chassis I am working on I added 1" to the front bulk head to give me just that little extra bit of room for my knees to be comfortable.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:31:28 GMT -5
Looks good Captain. I have big front tire/brakes envy. Ever get the issues with front anti-roll system sorted?
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:32:33 GMT -5
Hey, just throw an Mexican blanket over the seat foam like the hot rod guys do.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:33:23 GMT -5
Not sure what qualifies as extreme cornering, I have pushed it in my opinion on the back rounds near my town as fast as I pretty much dare to go. The trike is solid up to around 80mph which is about the max I go off the freeway, I think maturity kicks in and tells you that you designed it and if it fails your going to hit that tree at 70 mph and you might not survive so lets have some fun but live to see another day. On the freeway I maxed at about 110mph, this is almost more due to nutsting road surfaces around here with all the 18-wheelers tearing it up and the noise. Its interesting how much louder everything is in an open thingypit, and its not just wind noise, I think its more the tires honestly. Getting back to your original question, it feels really good in the corners, its an absolute blast to drive and see the reactions of people you fly past. Down shifting and braking hard coming into a corner and then the apex and back on the throttle and upshifting is an amazing feeling especially when you get it all right and just blast out of the corner. I have now put 2100 miles on it since April, and it was down for powder coating for 2 months of that. In other news, the power coater burned off my VIN stickers before I was able to get the thing inspected. So I was stuck in limbo where I have plates and registration but no title. I contacted the state inspectors office and asked for VIN replacement, they did what they could and the state came back (stupidly in my opinion) that they could not make new stickers and would have to re issue my VIN, which they did so now my VIN does not match my registration and I will probably have to start the whole process over again which sucks because registration was $500. Yay more of me in the poor house. Also for anyone interested I am getting ready to start my new chassis, which looks very similar to the one posted in Nedkelly's page. More on this soon.
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:34:53 GMT -5
Just wanted to know how the back end was holding out while on the power round a corner? Are your tyres 205 wide, is there any room left between the tyre and the swing arm? Could a 215 be fitted?
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:35:43 GMT -5
I just read the whole thread in the last couple days, how do you like the reclined seating position? would you have preferred it more upright? I find it uncomfortable sitting reclined in my car, but I think it's due to the steering wheel being too far away. I want design my trike as low as possible
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:37:46 GMT -5
-Carrotchariot Its hard to tell but its actually a very upright position, when I am sitting in it I feel very similar to sitting in my RAV4. Maybe a bit more reclined but with the pedals moved forward and the steering wheel closer it doesn't feel like you are reaching for the wheel at all. The RAV doesn't really fit me because I can't sit in the proper reclined position with the seat all the way back and still reach the wheel, if there was more play in the column it would be much nicer so I just bang my knees against the cluster and get one with it, similar to what I do in the trike. My new chassis design has the driver in the same position but about 1" lower (sitting between the frame rails), and the cluster is about 1/2" higher so my knees should have more then enough room. Getting back to your original question, I find my trike to be very natural and comfortable position even with little 3/4 foam pads, it fits like a glove with the expanding foam seat but it pushes me to far up vertically to sit on the foam so its really uncomfortable trying to get my knees not to bang the cluster at every bump which is why I have opted not to use it for myself. -Andrew
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:38:59 GMT -5
Did you post the seating area dimensions? I did see some dimensions of the frame, but I would like a good baseline to go from for seating. reclination angle, seat width, steering and dash height, etc. Thanks man I love the build so far!
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:40:18 GMT -5
Carrotchariot, Apologies about the wait, I stared at your question every few days for the last two weeks and never got around to answering it. So for all those interested including yourself I am posting some numbers from my new chassis which is based on my current chassis, with fixes where I thought they needed to be. Be aware, these numbers are for someone who is 6'4" to fit nicely in, if you are 5'5", you legs will be straight reaching for the pedals. Because I am currently going to try and start a side business creating these I purposely tried not give out everything, but for those willing to do a little math and eyeballing it should be enough to get you in the right direction. Sneak Peek of the latest and greatest, which I continue to chip away at week after week. -Andrew
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Dec 21, 2018 23:42:55 GMT -5
Hello there, i am very very impressed with your build man!!, i have been looking for a forum that had builds like this with this much details to build my own.. i have been in love with the Scorpion P6 for a few years now ever since getting a chance to test drive one at a motorcycle show here in Florida, but they wanted 48k for theirs back then and i hear now they are up in the 50k's after everything is said and done.. so i want to build my own just like you.. I am very interested in understanding your CAD drawing's so i can match your frame setup as i think its pretty much perfect for what i am interested in. I read that you were unsure on how to post it online, there is an easy way around that actually.. if you want to that is.. you can either use your OWN google account or make another free account for just the project and use its 15GB free google drive for the files.. All you would have to do is download google drive to your computer and login to the account you want to post it on and place all the files in the PUBLIC folder with read only rights.. then copy the URL link to that public folder and post it up and everyone can see your CAD stuff and download it anytime for free.. I use this method for picture storage for car shows that i shoot at.. i have MULTIPLE google accounts to have more than 15GB of space to share and have all their different drives stored on my PC under virtual drives... so i am up to like 180GB of free google drive space... This is the bike i was talking about.. I am thinking of building your frame out of Carbon Fiber since i have been playing around with it on my bicycle build and its been completely reliable with no signs of failure, i took my speed bike that was 41lbs and copied the frame out of carbon fiber and the new weight was reduced down to 23lbs.
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