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Post by fatherchuck53 on Aug 10, 2021 9:24:47 GMT -5
Its been since 1996 when I took 2 quarters of Metallurgy.
Most annealed aluminum will age harden within 2 days on its own and in about a week will be like un-annealed. Not all alloy's will anneal as easy. I have hand formed 16 gauge by hand and 2x4 blocks ground down in to shapes on a grinder. I also used a leather sand bag and plastic and rubber hammers. But we did TIG weld a lot of shapes too, like a bead on a panel. Dave as you learned metallurgy can be both interesting and a confusing pain. One of my masters degrees is in it, that was pre-stroke days though so things are even more fuzzy now then before.
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Post by liteway on Aug 10, 2021 10:25:14 GMT -5
Is the raccoon in your avatar a friend of yours?
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Post by fatherchuck53 on Aug 10, 2021 13:06:51 GMT -5
She was a good kid. She was an orphan we raised. She was free to come and go as she pleased with the doggy doors. Every evening for about 6 years she’d come in to play with the dogs, raid the refrigerator for grapes. And always there to supervise me.
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Post by liteway on Aug 21, 2021 9:45:32 GMT -5
Maybe the Garden tractor look is not such a loser after all. Not exactly a good daily driver or an RT but I dig this thing. I would have to have one where I could straighten my legs however.
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Post by noahkatz on Sept 12, 2021 20:29:21 GMT -5
> Most of your hardware store aluminum is 1100 grade. 1100 grade varies slightly from country to country in its alloy content. It will work harden but not age harden.
From what I remember from materials science, you can't generalize about aluminum, whether it work and/or age hardens depends on the alloy.
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Post by davej98002 on Sept 12, 2021 21:52:01 GMT -5
I tend to use hardware store steel brackets and angle but my aluminum came from Boeing Surplus or from a vendor. It's been 20 years since I bought any flat aluminum.
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Post by liteway on Oct 30, 2021 17:25:31 GMT -5
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Oct 30, 2021 18:37:58 GMT -5
Looking fancy with all the changes!
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Post by liteway on Oct 30, 2021 18:51:20 GMT -5
Thanks Andrew. I'll upload some more detail shots in the next hour or so if you are interested.
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Post by liteway on Oct 30, 2021 19:45:10 GMT -5
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Post by fatherchuck53 on Oct 30, 2021 22:45:53 GMT -5
With the changes you made and new paint scheme it looks very thought out and executed. I like the new look. it flows.
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Post by thejoker on Oct 30, 2021 23:04:35 GMT -5
Looks Great!
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Post by liteway on Oct 31, 2021 6:57:53 GMT -5
Thanks for comments fellows. A couple more detail angles; Not really into matt finishes, but it helps an amateur cover minor blunders. In this case rattle can gloss colors ( silver and black is dupilcolor wheel paint, yellow is duplicolor engine paint ) covered by matt clearcoat wheel paint. Etching Primer, 3 base coats and 2 clearcoats, I used 20 plus cans of paint. Not likely to very durable, If there is a next time, I must master a spray gun first. i.pinimg.com/originals/fd/77/4c/fd774c9ab33a27f855d1224bfcff5578.jpgFuel cap is accessed through door within a door. The entire tail section can be removed in a couple of minutes after taking out 6, 1/4" buttonhead screws and undoing a single plug connector. Just removing the old head fairing to access the top of the engine in the old design was a 20 minute job. i.pinimg.com/originals/5d/5c/96/5d5c96cc99a9a260c32f8b1ff9395647.jpgI experimented with a housing for the lights, but did not like the look. In order to keep the water out of the cockpit, a glued up a polycarbonate cup that seals against the underside of the hood to set the lights in, complete with a drain hose, was necessary to allow recessed light mounting. That way the hood can be detached in couple of minutes (seven #8 button heads) without unplugging anything. Hood off gives full access to braking, cooling system components, foot controls, most of the wiring ,horn, steering , coilovers etc. On the old trike design, it took 30 mins. with removal of possibly 40 button head and phillips screws holding down the hood, the windshield, the heater vent ducting and the detaching of 2 electric plugs for less favorable access. i.pinimg.com/originals/26/7f/a3/267fa39dfa58ba6b2816eda183225d0b.jpgi.pinimg.com/originals/57/cd/c2/57cdc2d7e307b164066fa0ed072cec3a.jpg
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Post by CaptainAmerica on Oct 31, 2021 20:30:18 GMT -5
Have you tested the rear wing? I was considering doing something like that for the Spartan to help with high speed rear end traction.
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Post by liteway on Oct 31, 2021 22:47:14 GMT -5
It would be difficult to document any advantage without access to a high speed track and the right instruments for measuring downforce and lap times. Seat of the pants, driving on public roads at legal or slightly higher speed, I cannot honestly say I have noticed a difference, but I only have about 1/2hour in it since the makeover. When at higher speeds with my trike's limited power levels, traction is not really a problem.
I installed it with several other things in mind. 1: that creating a little extra drag out back might have a positive effect on high speed stability. 2: the oversize bright yellow end plates would make me more conspicuous in traffic. 3: thought it might look cool.
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Post by liteway on Nov 2, 2021 11:49:05 GMT -5
I'm going to designate this D.S. 3.0. (Yellow Fin) To clarify how this endless project has kept me preoccupied for the last decade...... D.S.1 2010 1st rollout after paint. I could paint cause I was through modifying.... right? Buggy steering box, big head lights, ATV front end, cut down Gold Wing windshield, car type bucket seat. D.S. 1.25 2011 Side stick steering installed, small headlights, new coilovers up front. Cockpit heating provision. Top mounted wing removed. Head fairing fins installed. First (barely) roadworthy version. D.S. 2.0 2014 Revised higher cowling for more knee room requiring frame modification, bubble windshield, new instrument panel, head fairing, inboard front coilovers, anti roll bar, revised lower seating position with lighter custom seat, led headlights. Door. I called this 1.5 at the time but in hindsight with all the changes, 2.0 seems more appropriate. D.S 2.5 2016 Can Am front end components replaced atv parts, including brakes, uprights, 14" wheels, A arms with track widened 3 inches. D.S. 2.7 2019 Formula car rack and pinion replaced side sticks, seating position once more moved back and down. D.S. 2.8 2020 Revised rear suspension from high mounted direct coilover to low horizontal mounted link type which then allowed lowering the fuel tank about 5 inches. D.S. 3.0 2021 All new body panels and rear wing, full coverage shaped polycarbonate windscreen, revised cockpit heating, radiator overflow tank and air horn moved forward. i.pinimg.com/originals/9f/a2/3c/9fa23c7d8a6cf79a1dee651e6cdf347d.jpg
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Post by Self Absorbed Turnip on Nov 2, 2021 12:16:44 GMT -5
I experimented with a housing for the lights, but did not like the look. In order to keep the water out of the cockpit, a glued up a polycarbonate cup that seals against the underside of the hood to set the lights in, complete with a drain hose, was necessary to allow recessed light mounting. That way the hood can be detached in couple of minutes (seven #8 button heads) without unplugging anything. Hood off gives full access to braking, cooling system components, foot controls, most of the wiring ,horn, steering , coilovers etc. On the old trike design, it took 30 mins. with removal of possibly 40 button head and phillips screws holding down the hood, the windshield, the heater vent ducting and the detaching of 2 electric plugs for less favorable access. This paragraph alone seems worthy of it's own thread.
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Post by liteway on Nov 4, 2021 22:29:36 GMT -5
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Post by liteway on Nov 30, 2021 20:37:04 GMT -5
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Post by noahkatz on Dec 6, 2021 0:52:51 GMT -5
Looking really good, impressive work.
> Took it out for an extensive cruise today. It was 55 degrees. Vent open, I roasted, vent closed I froze.
So I missed how the hot air gets from the engine behind you into the cabin...
I've started designing my trike in earnest, and was think about a louvered door with the vanes controlled by a bimetallic element.
Simple mechanically, but could take endless fussing to get it to work right, so I'm thinking the smart way would be a temperature sensor controlling a motor that drives the louvers.
Maybe even smarter to just get one of those electric motorcycle suits.
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Post by liteway on Dec 6, 2021 10:33:01 GMT -5
The engine is rear mounted but the radiator is up front, with an insulated bulkhead separating it from the cockpit. A simple cable controlled hinged door covers a 6'x8' opening between them. i.pinimg.com/originals/fe/3a/2d/fe3a2dd68dbf478c6941509eaf39f0b7.jpgInitially I had trouble modulating how far the door opened, but some tinkering now gives me 4 distinct setting or detents, from having the door barely cracked to fully open so I can get the amount of heat I need without the freeze/cook cycling. The door was positioned behind the radiator fan with a thermostat override switch to try to get some air moving into the cockpit even when sitting still without resorting to installing a separate fan for which there is no room anyway. That did not work out entirely as the radiator fan tends to throw air in every direction but straight back at the vent. However, when moving , the air pressure difference between the radiator enclosure and the cockpit can move lots of warm air, enough to feel it on your face if you want. The radiator enclosure maintains pressure when the vent door is open because at the same time it closes off much of the compartments alternate venting out of the hood. Or to state more simply, I am redirecting radiator downstream air flow from the hole in the hood to the cockpit. I have already posted pictures of the vent operation in posts not far above. So it worked out okay as the faster the trike goes and more heat you need the more air is forced in to compensate. It's like having a strong fan with automatic speed control. There is no forced air when stationary, but I always avoid high traffic areas anyway, so that has not been much of a problem. Looking forward to your build. Trying out a new thing often doesn't work, but usually no one gets hurt and when it does work it can be very satisfying. Good luck on your build and your ideas. Hope you can post some results eventually.
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Post by davej98002 on Dec 6, 2021 18:03:34 GMT -5
In Europe Volkswagan had some CHEAP cars in the 1970's called K70. It was a NSU design. It was a water cooled 1,600 or 1,800 engine. The engine fan blew air out a vent under the car but if you pushed the cabin heat lever, a paddle moved and shut off the down flow so heat would blow in the cabin.You did NOT want to crash one as they folded up.
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Post by noahkatz on Dec 10, 2021 15:00:08 GMT -5
Ah right, I forgot the engine is water-cooled.
Been going in circles on the design.
I'm set on using a Harley Milwaukee 8 engine.
I vacillate between layout alternatives.
Was originally going to go with Morgan's mechanical layout - M8 to T5 or Miata 5-speed car trans (how to couple them is unresolved) to driveshaft to bevel box (using an adapted Gold Wing final drive unit) with belt drive to rear wheel; Triumph or Honda single-sided swingarm with sprocket replaced by belt pulley.
After pondering the complexity and work involved, the space consumed, and the possibility of belt squeal like on the Morgan and Polaris Slingshot, I decided to go with FWD.
I settled on a mid-90's to mid-200's VW-Audi transaxle that used longitudinal engines, had suitable gear ratios, are robust, and shift nicely.
I'd use 2002-2006 BMW Mini Cooper front hub units are the lightest I could find ( 6 1/2 lb) and outer CV joints on custom halfshafts using the stock trans side joints.
But after a couple of weeks of work I hit difficulties fitting the steering rack in.
Also, I've been reading suspension books and realized I may be getting into a world of hurt regarding torque steer with the combination of big engine and manual steering.
So back to plan A.
* Non-negotiable, because going any bigger costs at least 10 lb unspring weight per wheel
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Post by liteway on Dec 10, 2021 22:37:45 GMT -5
Interesting Ideas. Longitudinal front drive= Trihawk.
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Post by liteway on Dec 10, 2021 23:01:03 GMT -5
Have you tested the rear wing? I was considering doing something like that for the Spartan to help with high speed rear end traction. I was short on science and just went with what I thought looked correct. I was prompted by your question to do some basic research. It seems the best downforce before a wing stalls is achieved with a 12 deg. angle of attack. If a wickerbill is added, depending on it's possible size and angle, the wing it's self should be at a more shallow angle , anywhere from 0 to 10 to give the best combination of high downforce and low drag. That is generalizing greatly of course as there are a lot nuisances involved, like wing height, dimensions, cord cross section etc etc. I got pretty lucky on the bare wing angle as it's not adjustable and measured 13 degrees, but I blew it by adding the wickerbill which probably puts the wing in stall with high drag and very little downforce. i.ibb.co/vPSP30Y/new-red-mirrors-2.jpg
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Post by davej98002 on Dec 10, 2021 23:06:30 GMT -5
Telephone tech's think they know everything....
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Post by liteway on Jan 14, 2022 22:34:20 GMT -5
Just a posted a new video.
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Post by liteway on Jul 1, 2022 6:19:18 GMT -5
Been a while since posting, because not much to post about. Lots of noise abatement measures. I installed a stock air cleaner to reduce intake honk. The old one had been cut up to work around the rear monoshock, which has since been moved to below the engine. Installed a stock shorty muffler from a Yamaha FZ8 in place of the old stock YZF muffler that had been shortened to work with the shortened swing arm, reduces exhaust noise. Sound deadening mat has been stuck inside the rear fairing and vent holes cut to insure cooling. As I feared, micro scratches quickly accumulated in the windshield, being especially annoying when driving into the sun, so that was cut down to allow looking over. Still have good wind protection, but as you would expect, less than before, with quite a bit more wind noise. I bit the bullet and spent $600 on a new Progressive monoshock, a monotube type that maintains full damping when mounted horizontally. Now, what about the front shocks? It never ends. I replaced the lever type shifter with a conventional shift knob, which required relocating the horn button to the dash. I began to think the light silver wheels looked too common and old fashioned, so I resprayed them bronze. With the benefit of hind sight, I would leave them silver, saving time and money. Looked as good or better before, being a better match for the body colors. i.pinimg.com/originals/00/a3/c2/00a3c2391a67a6d60819999ad14c3da8.jpgi.pinimg.com/originals/14/73/65/147365597341f6c20482ecc60c488c81.jpgi.pinimg.com/originals/19/2d/d2/192dd2f0161f9da9a1256bf80bac19ed.jpgi.pinimg.com/originals/52/cd/29/52cd2962704e9149e49fb6228a304515.jpgCars and coffee, OKC, 7/2/22 i.pinimg.com/originals/8a/81/c8/8a81c817a4b7fffc12df71ecdb29ef2b.jpg
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