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Post by TomyJ on Oct 1, 2018 13:48:40 GMT -5
I found this design drawing I like very much, so lets give it a try... OR maybe this one? I will be using a 2K Honda Rebel 250cc (no radiator) as a parts bike. I do not like the body panels because they do not divert the air to the engine. So first the rolling frame then the panels. The red on also sits low...
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Post by Admin on Oct 1, 2018 21:19:56 GMT -5
I would like to see your design of this trike. I thought the body was not very good looking at all. Something else i wonder about is the honda 250 engine you want to use. I built a off-road reverse trike using the same motor. The motor only produces 17 HP. I started with regular 8x8x16 tires from a gokart. It was a dog. I tried using skinny scooter tires on the front but that didn't help. I sold the trike and the new owner put a kawasaki 440 engine in it. It was better but in a pit we used for hill climbing it still couldn't make it to the top. All our dirt bikes could easily make it to the top(about 35 ft high and very steep). Even my Honda XL-185 made it over the top. It's just too much weight for that small of a motor. Perhaps on the street it would be OK if you don't mind slow acceleration and a top speed around 55mph. I did like the 85 mpg i was getting on the old rebel i had. I think i would not use any engine less than a 500 motorcycle engine in a street trike. I still have some of those old motors laying around here for parts if i need them. 2 honda 250 twins, 2 honda 250 singles, 2 kawasaki 500 twins.And a few others here and there,LOL. I can't help being a cycle junk man.
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 1, 2018 22:38:55 GMT -5
I hear ya, I have felt this way for a while now, NOT enough HP, I can feel it and see it in the frame build, and little fat tires up front and big fat tire in the rear, so YES I have been rethinking this HP wise, OR I will make the engine space larger for future rebuild? EDIT: This RT build will be for sale and I hope before it is finished, The love here is in the build, safe and then cool looking. Ther are two types of RT's you ride on or in them, my next one will be ride in, which I think will be safer in a accident?
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 2, 2018 17:24:44 GMT -5
I like the basic shape of this nose with better air flow to the engine much better and maybe some side panels? AND dark colored bikes are to hard to see at night...Edit some accessories... seat... Gas Tank...
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Post by joesarasota on Oct 2, 2018 20:38:49 GMT -5
With regards to safety of reverse trikes the one you ride on like the Can Am Spyder or ride inside with roll bar and seat belts, I have both and wife feels much safer in the one you ride in, I agree! The Can Am Spyder will protect you better from yourself; your own careless driving with the Bosch computer giving it traction, stability control and antilock brakes. If you come into a corner with wet pavement too fast, the computer's sensors will instantaneously lower throttle and apply braking force intermittently to the appropriate wheels. With my T-Rex style trike I would spin out, but driving precariously to protecting yourself is paramount in any homemade vehicle. My bigger concern is sitting on my Can Am Spyder with no roll cage or seat belts to protect me from other drivers !
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 3, 2018 11:44:59 GMT -5
With regards to safety of reverse trikes the one you ride on like the Can Am Spyder or ride inside with roll bar and seat belts, I have both and wife feels much safer in the one you ride in, I agree! The Can Am Spyder will protect you better from yourself; your own careless driving with the Bosch computer giving it traction, stability control and antilock brakes. If you come into a corner with wet pavement too fast, the computer's sensors will instantaneously lower throttle and apply braking force intermittently to the appropriate wheels. With my T-Rex style trike I would spin out, but driving precariously to protecting yourself is paramount in any homemade vehicle. My bigger concern is sitting on my Can Am Spyder with no roll cage or seat belts to protect me from other drivers ! You have such a way with words, would you do a drift with a ride on? My next build will be a ride in, and Ohhhh yesss, I will be doing many SHENANIGANS in it...
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 3, 2018 18:43:29 GMT -5
I have redesigned the lower frame rails to be wider and will be off to the welder soon...
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Post by Admin on Oct 5, 2018 16:14:04 GMT -5
Looks like you have some competition, tomy. srx660 PS: Now that i look at the picture, it's you, EH!
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 6, 2018 13:53:35 GMT -5
Guess who I just found on FB RT builders? Ron Stretch Berg Member of Reverse Trike Owners and Builders since May 3, 2017.
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 6, 2018 20:49:15 GMT -5
And some more thinking about the jack shaft attachments and with the rear rim using hubs with Harley bolt pattern sprocket, so should the jack shaft be Honda and Harley? HELP! What size tooth sprockets are typical Jack shafts?
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 8, 2018 18:12:28 GMT -5
Upper frame rails, flat and square, with the control arm brackets, ready for welder tomorrow.
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 16, 2018 16:01:38 GMT -5
Back from the welder with frame rails tacked in place... Now I will be working on the swing arm mounting and 4 fixtures to keep the rails in proper alignment for the 18 degree vertical rise between the lower and upper rails...Ohhh! The white wheels will be used for a bare bones trailer when the frame is to big for the car... This photo will show the 18 degree uprights...
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 25, 2018 18:40:32 GMT -5
Fixtures are in place for test fitting, need some more trimming of the 18 degree uprights... Forgot to take photo of the fixtures by themselves, Next time...
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Post by Admin on Oct 28, 2018 11:05:11 GMT -5
Great work Tomy. Thank's for putting up your pictures for everyone. You have some anazing skill's. srx660
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 28, 2018 19:04:04 GMT -5
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 30, 2018 12:12:16 GMT -5
This is how it will look for welding, now I will be working on the Harley swing arm clean, bearings, sprocket- would you believe the smallest is about 46T and a 530 chain (jack shaft). Honda Rebel is 32T.
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Post by TomyJ on Oct 30, 2018 12:30:18 GMT -5
More mock up with the rim and swing arm... Lots more room for the chain and disc, maybe a 26x10x18 tire?
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 1, 2018 12:54:37 GMT -5
More mock up... Looking at seat height and length and I'm guessing around 17" off the ground, wow, Amy short people want to buy this when I'm finished building? Or maybe I'll give it to my wife, about 5 ft. even...
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 7, 2018 20:36:14 GMT -5
I hate learning from my mistakes, BUT the local independent Harley shop figured out what I was doing and offered me the correct wheel with the sprocket and the disc for brakes for less than the a new disc... Need caliper and make brackets soon... I just searched this tire Avon AV72-250-40-18, about $270. - $330. Wooooow!!! Disc for the disc brake, new $300. I just fell off my chair...
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 8, 2018 13:58:13 GMT -5
Lessons learned, I did not know that motorcycle tires came in width even numbers only? 250, 240, etc. and car tires come in odd numbers, 225, 235, 245, 255? So I am looking at about a 255-40-18, This should net me a 10" wide and 26" tall with a 18" rim, now is this 10" wide on the payment? or the bulge? Now… looks or price, This General tire is in the middle of both at $140. "NOT" The tire guy said we need room for the chain adjustment, sooooo I ended up with a 215-35-18 and OMG what a fit I am so glad I let these smart people do their thing it would have taken me ages of time and many mistakes (re-do's)...
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 10, 2018 19:43:26 GMT -5
Great tire fit for best chain placement... and and Now ready to order the chrome button head bolts for the sprocket and 1" ID spacers for the axle to keep the wheel away from the swing arm, mark swing arm bracket to the frame for welding so I hope to do Monday with the lower control arms, and then the upper rails...
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 11, 2018 14:29:16 GMT -5
Need to make everything square, hope to finish today... To the welder soon...
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 12, 2018 19:39:29 GMT -5
More squaring and ready for welding... Now how much room am I going to have for the engine/jack shaft and seat(s)?
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 15, 2018 11:55:19 GMT -5
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 16, 2018 19:57:39 GMT -5
More mock up, tack welded swing arm brackets to frame and lower control arm brackets. More mocking on the upper frame rails and control arm brackets and those 18 degree vertical braces...
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Post by davej98002 on Nov 17, 2018 2:48:27 GMT -5
I am not sure what the final will be with the swingarms frame brackets but I'd suggust a couple gussets to make it less in shear. Any side load will fold and maybe shear those ears off.
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 17, 2018 13:06:05 GMT -5
I am not sure what the final will be with the swingarms frame brackets but I'd suggust a couple gussets to make it less in shear. Any side load will fold and maybe shear those ears off. Thank You Dave, That is 1/4" x 2"w plate with a 1" gap between the swing arm and the frame and yes each side will have a upper and lower gussets. Did you notice all the gussets for the control arms?
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Post by davej98002 on Nov 17, 2018 16:26:18 GMT -5
When I weld on control arm tabs I put the tabs on with a single piece of PAPER between each side of the control bushings and the tabs. Then I weld the tabs and gussets down solid. After welding everything solid, remove the paper. The paper leaves just enough crush when you tighten the bolt for the bushings. On my 65 Dodge Dart GT autocross build I added about 5 pounds of gussets and braces to the original Cross Member and frame to get rid of massive flex. When I added gussets to the upper control arms tabs with the control arms loose, we could not get them tight enough to lock the bushings in place. I had to cut one sides gussets welds to allow the tab to move enough to lock the bushings in place and then reweld the gussets. After all the welding of the cross member and frame mounts, the worm gear steering box was rebuilt. With all these mods it was just as tight of a feeling as a Rack & Pinion steering car.
On our next car build, a 1967 Dart 270 for autocross I followed recommendations from a Mopar Road Race group that said just add sheets of common printer paper to the sides of the bushing, tighten it real snug, not final tight but close, in the tabs and then weld the gussets to the tabs, remove the paper.
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 18, 2018 20:31:04 GMT -5
The control arm lower brackets, tabs and gussets are 3/16, I hope overkill? I should have made some fixture bushings .005-.010 over and bolted before welding, I will for the upper ones...
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Post by TomyJ on Nov 21, 2018 19:56:00 GMT -5
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